Just two hours northwest of the Twin Cities nestled off Interstate 94 is a hidden gem of the Upper Midwest -- Alexandria, Minn. Visitors are drawn to the tranquility of dozens of nearby lakes and resorts, a handful of antique shops in downtown -- and one mysterious stone.

The small town is a big on Midwestern charm and Scandinavian pride. Towering at the north end of Broadway Street is Big Ole, a 28-foot, 4-ton Viking statue originally constructed for the 1964 World's Fair in New York. Visitors make a point of posing for photos at Ole's massive feet.

The statue's shield proudly declares "Alexandria Birthplace Of America" -- a nod to a curious, controversial stone unearthed by an area farmer in 1898. The Kensington Runestone, a 202-pound stone slab, is still housed at the Runestone Museum on Broadway Street.

The message carved in it tells a chilling, brief story of "8 Goths and 22 Norwegians on a exploration journey from Vinland." Members of the party camped a day's journey from the stone and returned from a fishing outing to find "10 men red with blood and dead Ave Maria Save from Evil," according to the town's website.

Etched in the side of the stone is a date: 1362. The controversy arises from a provocative question: Does the stone prove that Viking explorers reached Minnesota 130 years before Columbus' storied voyage?

Numerous experts have declared the stone a fake. But many locals believe it is real, and it has become a key part of the town's cultural -- and commercial -- identity.

The town of about 12,000 that had its beginnings before the Civil War has retained much of its historic charm. The downtown brick storefronts along its main commercial strip -- five blocks of Broadway Street -- conjure picturesque images of Small-town, U.S.A.

A stroll along the quaint street takes visitors into antique and gift shops, bookstores and a quilt shop. For good local eats, tourists often stop at the Sixth Avenue Wine & Ale, which serves up a wide selection of wines, live music and chocolate fondue. Other favorites include Depot Express, a national historic site known for pizza, and Doolittle's Woodfire Grill, which serves Memphis-style barbecue.

But mostly, travelers come for the lakes. Douglas County has more than 250 lakes, one of the highest concentrations in the state, and that is saying something in Minnesota.

Visitors have been drawn to the deep clean waters since the late 1800s as the railroads forged West and cottages and resorts began to sprout. Tourism officials brag that the area has something for everyone: fishing, swimming, boating, hunting, golf, biking, hiking -- and winter sports galore when the snow starts flying.

A few of the other many places worth experiencing:

• One of the oldest resorts is the old Hotel Alexandria on Lake Geneva, which opened in 1883 and is now called the Geneva Beach Resort. The grand old hotel was destroyed in a 1911 fire, but the resort just 2 miles from downtown Alexandria still has cabins and lodges and is rich with history and charm. Another lodging option is the Arrowwood, a resort on Lake Darling with golf course, marina, stable and huge indoor water park. Of course, the area has a number of quieter family-owned resorts, each with a story to tell.
• Lake Carlos State Park is a scenic 1,210-acre swath that hugs the north edge of the lake. With a sandy beach and 13 miles of gorgeous hiking, it is a favorite of campers.
• Bikers love the flat 55-mile Central Lakes Trail that goes from Fergus Falls through Alexandria to Osakis on an old railroad line -- much of it through green parkland.

Alexandria itself buzzes with local events through the summer and fall, including the Awake the Lakes Festival with Memorial Day parade in May; Vikingland Band Festival in June; Art in the Park in July; the Douglas County Fair, and Boats, Blues and BBQ, both in August; the Grape Stomp hosted by the Carlos Creek Winery every September and the Apple Fest in October.